Brewery Ommegang’s Hennepin

Cooperstown, New York is best known for the Baseball Hall of Fame, but Brewery Ommegang should be another source of civic pride. It specializes in Belgian-style ale, and its Hennepin is a light golden ale that shows up lesser similarly styled beers.

The saison isn’t showy, but its spices are nicely balanced and don’t separate easily. Clove is obvious, but more because you know its in this type of beer than because it’s oppressive. There’s a little banana in the nose and finish, and that touch of sweetness along with the ale’s lightness and mild carbonation make it an excellent, refreshing beer.